General Information About The Himalayas country of Nepal
Nepal is a small independent kingdom, located on the southern slopes of the Central Himalayas. Nepal has an unparalleled concentration of the world's highest mountains, including eight of the world's fourteen 8000-meter peaks. A ninth such peak, Shisha Pangma, is just over the border into Tibet. Nepal Himalaya consists of numerous subranges the most popular of them being the Annapurna and Khumbu Everest regions.
Areas are divided into the following main areas, most of which are further divided into groups or Himalayas ranges:
Dhaulagiri-Mukut:-Annapurna area Annapurna region is the most popular trekking and climbing area in Nepal, even more, popular than the Khumbu region. The area has two very popular treks: Annapurna Sanctuary trek and Annapurna Circuit, both of which are also important means of access to climbs both within Annapurna Sanctuary and on nearby Damodar Himal. Annapurna I is very famous but doesn't see hordes of climbers due to technical difficulties as well as significant objective hazards. Macchapucchare is probably the second most famous of the group. It is a sacred mountain and is not open to climbers. Those aside, several trekking peaks are accessible from Annapurna Sanctuary as well as from the neighboring valley to the east. Particularly Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) is popular. Additionally, Chulu Peaks and Pisang peak located on Damodar Himal is generally approached from Annapurna Circuit.
Manaslu-Ganesh Gurkha Himal is Located to the east of Annapurna. The giant of the area is Manaslu (8163m). Technically easy Himlung Himal is another famous peak in the area. Ganesh Himal is Located between Gurkha Himal in the West and Langtang in the east, separated from the latter by the Trisuli River. Trisuli river valley is used to access the eastern reaches of Ganesh. While Ganesh (7406m), Ganesh V (6950m), Pabil (7101m), and Lapsang Karbo (7150m) are far higher, probably the most popular climbing destination in the area is trekking peak Paldor (5928m, group B), located in SE end of Ganesh.
Langtang Himal Langtang valley is located to the east of Ganesh and the west of Rolwaling and Khumbu, directly to the north (30km) of Kathmandu. On the north side of Langtang valley rises Langtang Himal with Langtang II (6571m), Langtang Lirung (7205m, the highest peak accessible directly from Langtang valley), Yubra Himal (6035m) Tsanbu Ri (6760m), Yensa Tenji (6543m), Tsergo (5732m) and Tsergo Ri (4984m). In the west, at the end of Langtang valley, and on the southern side on valley rises Jugal Himal with Morimoto Peak (6750m), Bhemlang Karpu (5691m), Langshisa Ri (6151m), Gangchampo (Gang Chennpo, 6387m) and Naya Kanga (Gang-La Chuli, 5846m).
Khumbu-Rolwaling-Makalu Rolwaling Himal is Located SW of the Khumbu region, to the north of Rolwaling valley. The highest peak of the group is Melungtse (7181m) and Gauri Sankar (7145m). Rolwaling also has trekking peaks, Kwangde, Parchamo, Chekigo and Ramdung. Mahalangur Himal Khumbu is a very popular area in eastern Nepal. It is located to the northeast of Rolwaling, separated from it by Dudh Kosi valley. Besides 8000-meter giants (Everest, Lhotse) and picturesque Ama Dablam.
Kangchenjunga Himalayas Sikkim lies sandwiched between Nepal in the west and Bhutan in the east, directly north of the Bay of Bengal. It was formerly independent but is a known part of India. The mountains of Sikkim are renowned for their poor weather, frequent snowfall, and general cloud cover. The considerable precipitation on these often steep-sided peaks produces spectacular flutings and corniced crests much more in keeping with Peruvian mountains than those of the Himalayas. The range is dominated by massive Kangchenjunga (8586m), the easternmost 8000m peak. Little is known about the area and access is complicated. However, there are several high peaks, including several unclimbed 7000m peaks. Darjeeling, lying some 70km south of Kangchenjunga is the most conveniently located starting point for climbs in Sikkim.
Kathmandu (1300m) is the starting point for virtually all climbing activities in Nepal. From there, areas lying in Central Nepal (mainly Ganesh and Langtang) can be accessed by car in a day, usually via Chunche. Climbs in Western Nepal are usually accessed from Pokhara (accessible from Kathmandu by Tourist bus, Local/private car, or plane). Eastern areas are most conveniently reached by trekking, bus/jeep, or taking a plane from Kathmandu to Lukla.
Weather and conditions:-The weather is cool in the mountains year-round, with winters being especially severe, and monsoon season creating impossible traveling conditions as the heavy rains bring torrents and mudslides. The best time for climbing or trekking in Nepal is during either the pre-monsoon (March/April through early May) or post-monsoon (late September through November) seasons.
Rules and regulations:-Climbing in Nepal as an entire are encouraged but tightly regulated. Access is only allowed on government-approved peaks. There are different categories of peaks, and the difference in the amount of bureaucracy (and cost) varies dramatically between these.
Expedition Peaks:-Climbing expedition peaks require a fair bit of bureaucracy. Some of the peaks have such long waiting lists that a trip must be planned for years. Both the amount of necessary civil service and the price of a climbing permit vary dramatically between peaks. Mount Everest is by far the most expensive.
Trekking Peaks:-On the other end of the price range are so-called "trekking peaks". There are currently two groups of trekking peaks; the original 18 trekking peaks are group B peaks while "new" trekking peaks form group A (slightly more expensive). Trekking peaks are typically between 5500 and 6500 high.
The term "trekking peak" might lead you to expect that trekking is all that is needed to submit them. Big mistake, the word "trekking" does not have anything to do with the technical difficulty of these mountains. While some of them are technically quite easy (such as the standard route of Mera Peak), some on the other are extremely difficult (Kusum Kanguru is often regarded as the most difficult with the easiest route graded alpine D or TD). Some of the "newer" group A peaks are practically unclimbed, however, there are some very difficult mountains among those, particularly Cholatse but also Pharilapcha, Kyajo Ri, Bokta, and Langhisa Ri.
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Name Height Grade/Alpine grade of the normal route.
Abi Bokta
Chekigo 6257m (20,528'),Chhukung Ri 5546m (18,196')
Cholatse 6440m (21,129')Kyajo Ri (Kyazo Ri)6186m (20,295')
Langshisa Ri ( Langshisha Ri)6427m (21,086')
Langtang Yubra (Yubra Himal)6048m (19,843')Larkya Peak (Thulo Larkye Peak)6249m (20,502')Lobuche West,Nirekha (Nirekhu) 6159m (20,207')
Ombigainchan (Puma Dablam)6340m (20,801')Pharilapche (Pharilapcha, Machermo, Machhermo) 6017m (19,741')Yala Peak(5732m (18,806')
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Name Height Location Grade/Alpine grade of the normal route.
Chulu East 6220m (20,407')Damodar Himal
Chulu West 6630m (21,752')Damodar Himal
Hiunchuli 6441m (21,132')Annapurna Himal
Imja Tse (Island Peak)6183m (20,285')Mahalangur Himal
Kongma Tse (Khongma Tse, Mehra Peak, Mehra)5820m (19,094')Mahalangur Himal
Kusum Kanguru 6369m (20,896')Mahalangur Himal
Kwangde (Kongde Ri, Kwangde Lho)6187m (20,299')Rolwaling Himal
Lobuche East (Lobuje East)6119m (20,075')Mahalangur Himal
Mardi Himal 5587m (18,330')Annapurna Himal
Mera Peak 6476m (21,247')Mahalangur Himal II
Naya Kanga (Gangula Chuli, Gang-La Chuli) 5846m (19,180')Langtang Himal II
Pacharmo (Patchamo, Pachermo)6273m (20,581')Rolwaling Himal,Paldor 5928m (19,449')Ganesh Himal,Pisang Peak 6091m (19,984')Damodar Himal,Pokalde,Ramdung Go (Ramdung, Ramdang Go) 5930m (19,455') Rolwaling Himal,Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak)6501m (21,329')Annapurna Himal,Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)5663m (18,579')Annapurna Himal,Climbing in the Himalayas Region. Information about the regulations and fees of climbing in the Himalayas.Nepal Mountaineering Association. Official site. Information about climbing in Nepal.Mountaineering. Peak lists and rules and regulations. At Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal.
Commercial services:- Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN) was formed and registered with the Kathmandu CDO Office in 1979 by a handful of trekking agents who realized that it was time to assemble and create an umbrella organization under which they could work together to meet their common goals and also assist the government by providing suggestions to develop trekking business into a revenue-generating industry. Such a body was necessary for many reasons. There was a need for a single organization, which could undertake the major responsibilities to develop and promoting adventure tourism in the country. The need for a responsible body, which could play a significant and conducive role to mitigate mountain environmental stress, was felt essential.
Grading:-The most commonly used grading system is the French adjectival system (IFAS). However, the NCCS system is also sometimes used. Ice pitches are most commonly graded with steepness, however, very steep routes are often graded with WI-grade or sometimes Scottish grade. Rock pitches have traditionally been graded with usage rock grade. However, depending on which system the first ascent party was most familiar with, yds or french rock grades may be used instead. Rock grade is accompanied by standard aid climbing grade whenever applicable.
Western Nepal:-Here Western Nepal covers all the western areas until Kali Gandaki river valley between Dhaulagiri Himal in the west and Annapurna Himal in the east. Western groups are the remotest and least part of the Nepalese Himalayas. Dhaulagiri is the only 8000m peak in the area and there are not many trekking peaks. Access is most commonly via Nepalgunj, from where further connection flight is needed to get to the starting points such as Jumla or Simikot. Easternmost areas could also be accessed from Pokhara.
Far West:-Nalakankar Himal Groups are located on Tibet/Nepal border. The closest city on the Nepal side is Simikot located in the valley between Nalakankar Himalaya in the north and Saipla group of Gurans Himal in the south. The highest peaks of the group are found in Gurla Mandhata massif, located entirely on the Tibetan side, not far from the holy mountain of Kailash.
-Gorakh Himal, Kanti Himal, Palchung Hamga Himal
-Patrasi Himal, Kanjiroba Himal
West of Kaligandaki River, Gautam Himal, Palchung Hamga Himal, Mukut Himal; Dhaulagiri Himal, Dwari Lekh, The main convention center is Simikot which is most commonly gained by flight from Nepalgunj. However, the words convenient and center as well as the expression "most commonly" don't readily apply to this part of Nepal.
Far West. At Great Himalayas Trail.
Gurans Himal:-West of the Seti chain with Api West - Api - Nampa - Nampa South - Bobaye - Jethi Bahurani - Rokapi rise in a horseshoe around Chamila Khola in the south.
Mountains:-Gurans HimalApi (7132m)Saipal I (7030m)Jethi Bahurani (6850m)Bobaye (6808m)Nampa (6755m)Raksha Uraï III (6609m)Kojichwa Chuli (6439m)Gojung (6310m)
Changla HimalKubi Kangri (6721m)Gave Ding (6571m)
Nalakankar HimalGurla Mandhata I (7694m)Gurla Mandhata II (6912m)Guna (6902m)Gurla Mandhata West (6851m)Gurla Mandhata III (SW) (6762m)
Chandi HimalChandi Himal (6096m)Changwatnang (6125m)
Changla HimalKubi Kangri (6721m)Gave Ding (6571m)
Upper Karnali basin
Kanjiroba Himal is located in western Nepal along the Tibetan border, in the region known as Dolpo. The area lies NW from Dhaulagiri Himal, in Shey Phoksundo National Park, and about 180km NW of Pokhara. Jumla is the most convenient starting point. The highest peak of the range is Kanjiroba at 6883m.
Dolpo & Mugu. At Great Himalaya Trail.Mustang. At Great Himalaya Trail.
Mountains:-Kanti HimalKaqur Kangri (6850m)Kanjiroba HimalKanjiroba (6883m)
West of Kaligandaki River
Dhaulagiri Himal extends 120km from Bheri (west) to Kaligandaki River (east). This massif is enclosed on the north and southwest by tributaries of the Bheri and the southeast by Myagdi Khola. It consists of two massifs: The western group and the Eastern group. The two are separated by Myagdi Khola and Hidden valleys which are connected by a French pass (5360m).
There are no NMA group A or B trekking peaks in Dhaulagiri Himal, so the number of climbers is very low. Trek from Muni through Myagdi Khola, French Pass, and Dhampuss Pass to Marpha in Kali Gandaki valley is the most important trekking route of Dhaulagiri Himal. It also provides access to Italian base Camp (Dhaulagiri West side) and Dhaulagiri BC (north and west sides) as well as several lower peaks.
Mountains:-Western groupDhaulagiri II (7751m)Dhaulagiri IV (7661m)Dhaulagiri V (7618m)Churen Himal (7385m)Dhaulagiri VI (7268m)Putha Hiunchuli (7246m)Gurja Himal (7193m)Kaya Chuli (6975m)Dagari Himal (6536m)Churen Himal West (7371m)Churen Himal East (7371m)
Eastern groupDhaulagiri I (8167m)Tukche Ri (6920m)Tukche Ri North (6848m)
Mukut HimalMukut groupMukut Himal (6639m)Hongde (6556m)Sandachhe HimalDhampus Peak (6012m)Tashi Kang (6386m)Tsartse (6343m)P. 6403 (6403m)
Annapurna region is the most popular trekking and climbing area in Nepal, even more, popular than the Khumbu region. The area has two very popular treks: Annapurna Sanctuary trek and Annapurna Circuit, both of which are also important means of access to climbs both within Annapurna Sanctuary and on nearby Damodar Himal. Annapurna I is very famous but doesn't see hordes of climbers due to technical difficulties as well as significant objective hazards. Macchapucchare is probably the second most famous of the group. It is a sacred mountain and is not open to climbers. Those aside, several trekking peaks are accessible from Annapurna Sanctuary as well as from the neighboring valley to the east. Particularly Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) is popular. Additionally, Chulu Peaks and Pisang peak located on Damodar Himal is generally approached from Annapurna Circuit.
Because of the huge number of trekkers, there are several lodges and tea houses. Especially Annapurna Sanctuary with its stupendous South Face of Annapurna and picturesque Macchapucchare and Annapurna Circuit treks are very popular. Also, peaks located in nearby Ganesh (Damador Himal) can conveniently be combined with the very popular Annapurna circuit trek.
Classic expedition peaks of the area are Annapurna and Macchapucchare. Sanctuary is reached from Pokhara in 5 days trek (35km) following more or less Medi Khola river and valley leads to Annapurna Sanctuary. The main peaks forming the horseshoe are Annapurna South (7219m), Annapurna I (8091m), Annapurna III, and Macchapucchare (6993m). Most climbs start either from Macchapucchare base camp (3720m, 4 days from Pokhara) or Annapurna Base camp (4095m, 5 days from Pokhara).
The area also has several trekking peaks. Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak, 5663m), Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 6501m), and Hiunchuli (6441m) are located in Annapurna Sanctuary. Mardi Himal (5587m) is located to the south of Macchapucchare (not climbed from Annapurna Sanctuary). Other popular peaks are located in Damador Himal along the Annapurna circuit trek, to the north of Annapurna Himal and Marsyandi river. Here lie trekking peaks Chulu West, Central, East and the Far East, and Pisang Peak.
The most common access to the area is from Kathmandu via Pokhara (827m), located about 200km west of Kathmandu. Pokhara can be reached from Kathmandu either by plane or by car/jeep/bus. March/April-May is the best timeframe for pre-monsoon climbing season. Post monsoon season running from September/ October to November is considered to be better though.
Phu Khola:-Phu Khola is a large valley system running north from Koto in Manyangdi Khola. There are several side valleys, particularly towards the west. The most important of these are Cchubche Khola North side of the Chulu group, Lapse Khola To tei La, and Jomson Peak. Phu Khola South side of the peaks located at the head of the valley system, on the Nepalese-Tibetan border: Saibung (6328m), Bhrikuti, Lagula, Chako (6704m)Unknown 1 Ratu Chuli, Phu Kang (6694), north side of Himlung Himal, Unknown 2 West sides of Himlung Himal, Himjust, Nemjung, Gyaji Kang (7074m)
Manyangdi Khola:-South-East to North-west direction between Annapurna Himal in the south and Chulu group (Damodar Himal) in the north. Thorong La at the head of the valley. Barrabes 26, 7 days from Besi Sabu. Koto - Tchame - Pisang - Hangde - Braga ... Thorong La
Kali Gandaki:-Kali Gandaki river valley runs in the north-south direction between Dhaulagiri in the west and the Annapurna area in the east. Lete - Tukuche - Marpha - Jomosom
Annapurna Sanctuary:-From Pokhara along Modi Khola. 5 days to Annapurna South base camp at 4100m. Macchapucchare base camp at 4115m, 1h less. Hinku Cave at 3000m, one day less than Annapurna BC.
Mardi Khola:-Macchapucchare South ridge is divided in two at Mardi Himal. between the branches lies Mardi Khola. Approach to Mardi Himal base camp follows the ridge forming the eastern bank of Mardi Khola to the campsite at 4100m south of the peak. Barrabes 25, 5 days from Pokhara.
Annapurna Himal:-Most climbing in Annapurna Himal takes place inside the sanctuary. It is a base for attempts on the gigantic south face of Annapurna I as well as for routes on trekking peaks Hiunchuli, Singu Chuli, and Tharpu Chuli. Of the trekking peaks, Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak, 5663m) is the easiest (PD, 50 along the NW Ridge, AD along SE Ridge, both 2 days from base camp at 4200m). Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak, 6501m) and Hiunchuli (6441m) rank among the most difficult trekking peaks. Mardi Himal (5587m) is located to the south of Macchapucchare (not climbed from Annapurna Sanctuary). As the sanctuary offers a stunning view it is also very popular among the trekkers. Therefore both the approach trek as well as base camp sites within the sanctuary have several tea houses and lodges for accommodation. The approach from Pokhara takes about 5 days. Striking Machhapuchhare would be an obvious target for climbers, but it is off-limits as it is sacred to locals and has never been climbed.
Mountains:-Annapurna WestTilicho (7134m)Nilgiri (7061m)Nilgiri Central (6940m)Nilgiri South (6839m)Khatang Kang (6484m)Thorong Peak (6144m)Annapurna CentralHiunchuli-Annapurna SouthHiunchuli (6441m)Annapurna Dakshin (7219m)Annapurna Dakshin NE (7126m)Annapurna main chainAnnapurna I (8091m)Varahar Shikar (7647m)Annapurna III (7555m)Gangapurna (7455m)Roc Noir (7485m)Tarke Kang (7193m)Singu Chuli-Tharpu ChuliSingu Chuli (6501m)Tharpu Chuli (5663m)Gandharba Chuli-Mardi HimalMacchapucchare (6993m)Gandharba Chuli (6248m)Mardi Himal (5587m)
Annapurna East Annapurna II (7937m)Annapurna IV (7525m)Lamjung Kailas (6983m)Lamjung Kailas West (6900m)Lamjung Kailas North West (6897m)
Damodar Himal:-Peaks in Damodar Himal is usually climbed from the very popular Annapurna Circuit trek. The trekking route goes through Thorong la and continues towards SE with Damodar peaks in the north and Annapurna Himal in the south.
The area also has a few trekking peaks: Chulu Central (6558m, group A), Chulu West (6419m), Chulu East (6200m, group B), Chulu Far East (6060m, group B), Pisang Peak (6091m) and Larkya Peak (6010m, group A). Chulus and Pisang peaks are located in Manang Himal which is part of the larger Damodar Himal.
Annapurna, Naar & Phu. At Great Himalaya Trail.
Mountains:-Chulu groupYakawa Kang (6482m)Purkhang (6120m)Putrung (6466m)Genjanch (6111m)Chulu West (6630m)Chulu Central (6558m)Chulu East (6220m)Chulu Far East (6060m)Pisang Peak (6091m)Khamjung groupKhamjung (6759m)Jomsom Peak (6120m)Amotsang (6393m)
Pheri Himal:-Group of peaks located on the Tibetan border and approached from Phu Khola.
Mountains:-Pheri HimalRatna Chuli (7035m)Panbari Himal I (6905m)Lugula Himal (6899m)Cheo (6820m)Panbari Himal II (6767m)Khumjungar (6759m)Bhrikuti (6364m)Chako (6704m)
Gurkha Himal:-Located to the east of Annapurna. The giant of the area is Manaslu (8163m). Technically easy Himlung Himal is another famous peak in the area.
Manaslu & Ganesh Himal. At Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Nemjung groupNemjung (7139m)Himlung Himal (7126m)Himjung (7092m)Gyaji Kang (7074m)Kang Guru I (6981m)Kang Guru II (6805m)Kang Guru III (6780m)Phu Kang (6694m)
Manaslu groupManaslu (8163m)Himalchuli (7893m)Ngadi Chuli (7871m)Manaslu North (6994m)Larkya Peak (6249m)Baudha Peak (6672m)Lidanda Peak (6693m)
Mansiri HimalHimalchuli West (7540m)Himalchuli North (7371m)Thulagi Chuli (7059m)
Ganesh Himal
Located between Gurkha Himal in the West and Langtang in the east, separated from the latter by the Trisuli River. Trisuli river valley is used to access the eastern reaches of Ganesh. While Ganesh (7406m), Ganesh V (6950m), Pabil (7101m), and Lapsang Karbo (7150m) are far higher, probably the most popular climbing destination in the area is trekking peak Paldor (5928m, group B), located in SE end of Ganesh.
Eastern reaches of Ganesh are most readily accessed the same way as nearby Langtang valley, by taking a car via Dhunche to Syabru village (2200m, ~8h from Kathmandu, 6h hike from Dhunche). From there Paldor BC can be reached in 2-3 days by a trek up Chillame Khola, then crossing a pass to Mailung Khola to Sondoro and BC by Lai Mine at 4700m.
Pre-monsoon climbing season March-May and the post-monsoon climbing season is September - October-November.
Manaslu & Ganesh Himal. Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Sringi HimalChamar (7187m)Chamar South (7161m)
Ganesh group Angra Kangri I (7422m)Ganesh II (7118m)Salasungo (7110m)Pabil (7101m)Ganesh V (6950m)Ganesh VI (6908m)Lampo (6460m)Paldor (5928m)Paldor Oeste (5500m)Fang (5500m)Ganesh VII (6676m)
Langtang valley is located to the east of Ganesh and the west of Rolwaling and Khumbu, directly to the north (30km) of Kathmandu. On the north side of Langtang valley rises Langtang Himal with Langtang II (6571m), Langtang Lirung (7205m, the highest peak accessible directly from Langtang valley), Yubra Himal (6035m) Tsanbu Ri (6760m), Yensa Tenji (6543m), Tsergo (5732m) and Tsergo Ri (4984m). In the west, at the end of Langtang valley, and on the southern side on valley rises Jugal Himal with Morimoto Peak (6750m), Bhemlang Karpu (5691m), Langshisa Ri (6151m), Gangchampo (Gang Chennpo, 6387m) and Naya Kanga (Gang-La Chuli, 5846m).
Jugal Himal also has plenty of high peaks that are not directly accessible from Langtang valley. They include Phola Gangchen (7661m), Porang Ri (7284m), Pungpa Ri (7443m), Dorhje Lakhpa (6966m) and Shisma Pangma (8048m). Jugal Himas reaches the Tibetan side which is called Baiku Himalaya, also Shisha Pangma is located in Tibet.
There are few alternative means to access Langtang valley from Kathmandu. The most convenient access is to take a car from Kathmandu via Trisuli river valley to Dhunche and further to Syabru village (2200m, ~8h from Kathmandu, 6h hike from Dhunche). From there 2 days trek along Langtang valley via Lama Hotel (2480m, 7h) to Langtang village (3480m, 6h) and further to Gyangjin Gompa with famous cheese factory and monastery (3870m, half a day from Langtang village). Another option is to trek through Helambu, then cross Ganja La Pass (5200m) close to Naya Kanga to access Langtang valley. There are several optional routes from Kathmandu through Helambu to Ganja La, usually taking between 5 and 7 days.
Most climbs are accessed from Kyangjin Gompa (~3870m). The upper reaches of Langtang valley and Jugal Himal are accessed from Langhisa Kharka (4164m, half a day from Gyangjin Gompa) further up in the valley. From there access to climbs on Gangchempo and Langshisa Ri is provided b Tilman's Pass (5320m), located to the south of Langtang glacier between Gangchempo and Urkgyebnmang.
Climbing in the Langtang area requires no special permits, but several park fees are required in addition to the peak fees. Most climbing takes place on trekking peaks of the area, especially Naya Kanga (5846m, group B) and Yala Peak (5732m, group A, formerly regularly climbed without a permit). Two new groups A trekking peaks Langshisa Ri (6427m, difficult involving steep ice (60)) and Yubra Himal (6035m) are found in the area. Tsergo Ri (5033m) is a popular acclimatization climb reached from Kyangjin Gompa (3900m, monastery, popular among the trekkers).
Langtang Lirung, the highest peak in the area, is an expedition peak and very difficult at that. The other expedition peak to see some climbing activity is picturesque Gangchempo, which has a beautiful ice face, somewhat reminiscent of Andean flutes, hence the peak is also known as "Fluted Peak".
Trisuli valley
Most convenient access to Langtang valley, as well as eastern Ganesh Himal ( Paldor), is through Trisula valley. First by car from Kathmandu via Trisuli river valley to Dhunche and further to Syabru village (2200m, 8h from Kathmandu, 6h hike from Dhunche).
Langtang valley:-From there 2 days trek along Langtang valley via Lama Hotel (2480m, 7h) to Langtang village (3480m, 6h) and further to Gyangjin Gompa with famous cheese factory and monastery (3870m, half a day from Langtang village).
Langtang valley consists of western Jugal Himal. Essentially it is formed by a ridge running generally south from Porong Ri, just to the west of Shisha Pangma. The ridge contains several high peaks including Godum (6447m) - Pethang Karpo - Gurkapo Ri - Leonpo Gang. The ridge runs further SE, but direct access from Langtang valley is cut by major side ridge SW from Leonpo Gang to Dorje Lakhpa. This is where Langtang Himal's southern chain connects to the Jugal group. Another, relatively short ridge thrusts into Langtang valley from Gurkapo Ri and contains the trekking peak Lansgshisa Ri. This Jugal ridge is continuously high with no easy pass to the eastern side, although Hagen's col between Porong Ri and Godum (6447m) has been crossed. From Kyangjin Gompa to Naya Kanga basecamp 1 day or half a day depending on whether the camp is placed just below Ganja la or further down.
The helambu:-Another option is to trek through Helambu, then cross Ganja La Pass (5200m) close to Naya Kanga to access Langtang valley. There are several optional routes from Kathmandu through Helambu to Ganja La, usually taking between 7 and 8 days.
Mountains:-Baiku HimalayaGang Benchhen (7281m)Chalung Ri (6767m)Xatang (6697m)Gobarung (6671m)Purephu Ri (6846m)
Langtang NorthLangtang Lirung (7234m)Tsangbu Ri (6781m)Langtang II (6571m)Peak 6781 (6781m)Langtang Yubra (6048m)Yubra (6264m)Dagpache (6567m)Tsergo Ri (5033m)Yala Peak (5732m)
Langtang SouthNaya Kanga (5846m)Gangchempo (6387m)Urgyenmang (6151m)Lingshing Kangshurm (6078m)
Jugal west chainLonpo Gang (6979m)Gurkarpo Ri (6891m)Pemthang Karpo Ri (6830m)Bhairab Takuta (6679m)Gyalzen Peak (6151m)Ladies peak (6000m)Phurbi Chhyachu (6637m)
Jugal main chainShisha Pangma (8012m)Phola Gangchen (7703m)Porong Ri (7292m)Langtang Ri (7205m)Pungpa Ri (7443m)
Dorje Lakhpa ridgeDorje Lhakpa (6966m)
Gurkapo-LangshisaLangshisa Ri (6427m)
Rolwaling Himal:-Located SW of Khumbu region, to the north of Rolwaling valley. The highest peaks of the group are Melungtse (7181m) and Gauri Sankar (7145m). Rolwaling also has trekking peaks, Kwangde, Parchamo, Chekigo and Ramdung.
Challenging Kwangde (6187m, group B) is located close to Nache Bazaar. Its north face (Hungo face) is very difficult though. Lumding valley in the easternmost part of Rolwaling is accessible from Dud Kosh valley (Lukla, 2800m) via Moro La (alternatively from Ringmo via Traksindu La). It is seldom visited by trekkers and provides access to Katy Olng (6511m), Khatang (6782m), Numbur (6957m), and the south side of Kwangde (6011m, group B).
Parchamo (6187m, group A, NW Ridge PD+) is located further to the west. Chekigo (6257, group A) is located still further to the west in the Gaurisankar range, close to the Chinese border. Its NW face is a reasonably difficult ice/snow climb at III D (200m of 45-55). Ramdung locates somewhat south of Chekigo is easier (NE Face PD, 2 high camps).
Namche Bazaar & Lumding valley
Rolwaling. Great Himalayan Trail.
Solo Khumbu (Everest) Great Himalayan Trail.
Kang Nachugo East, Santiago Padros, and Domen Kastelic establish Monsoon. On 21 and 22 October 2013 Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic made the first ascent of Monsoon (1500m /75°) up the SW Face of Kang Nachugo East, Rolwaling Valley, Himalaya, Nepal. Two Americans climb three new routes in Nepal's Rolwaling Valley. This past autumn Nik Mirhashemi and Mark Pugliese climbed two potential new routes and one confirmed new route on three different peaks on their first trip to the Himalayas.
Mountains:-Gaurishankar HimalMelungtse (7181m)Gaurishankar (7145m)Gaurishankar South (6983m)Tengi Ragi Tau (6968m)Takargo (6771m)Dangnok Ri (6757m)Punta Perazio (6120m)Chekigo (6257m)Takargo (6771m)
Lumding HimalNupla (5885m)Kwangde (6187m)Kwangde Shar (6093m)Kwangde Nup (6035m)Tengkangpoch (6487m)Paniyo Tapa (6696m)Bigphera-Go Shar (6729m)Bigphera-Go Nup (6666m)Chukyima Go (6259m)Ramdung Go (5930m)Yalung Ri (5630m)Likhu Chuli Shar (6719m)Likhu Chuli II (6659m)Pacharmo (6273m)Pahamlahaka (6141m)
Shorong HimalNumbur (6965m)Khatang (6790m)
Mahalangur Himal:-Khumbu is a very popular area in eastern Nepal. It is located to the northeast of Rolwaling, separated from it by Dudh Kosi valley. Besides 8000-meter giants (Everest, Lhotse) and picturesque Ama Dablam.
Mahalangur consists of several groups:
Khumuche Himal Khumuche Himal is a south-north chain located to the north of Namche Bazar between Bhote Koshi in the west and Gokyo valley in the east.
Taboche-Cholatse Group is located between Gokyo valley in the west and Khumbu valley in the east.
Lobuche-Nirekha Group is located between Gokyo valley in the west and Khumbu valley and to the north of the Taboche-Cholatse group.
Barun Himal:-Charpati Himal Small group is located to the east of Lukla, Namche Bazar, and Tengboche. The group consists of a south-north ridge with Kusum Kanguru in the south and Kangtega in the north and east-west side branch from Kangtega towards Namche Bazar containing Thamserku. The same ridge extends also to east over Malamphuhah to Mingbo la (5845m) separating Charpati Himal from Barun Himal.
Mera Himal Mera Himal is a north-south ridge located to the east of Charpati Himal. The highest peak of the group is Peak 41 in the northern part of the group, immediately to the south of Ombigaichan. To the south of it and separated from it by Mera la (5415m) lies Mera Peak, by far the most climbed peak in the group.
The area has several trekking peaks:
Cholatse (6440m)Chhukung Ri (5546m)Pharilapche (6017m)Kyajo Ri (6186m)Nirekha (6159m)Ombigainchan (6340m)AbiLobuche WestMera Peak (6476m)Lobuche East (6119m)Kusum Kanguru (6369m)PokaldeImja Tse (6183m)Kongma Tse (5820m)
The areas are also popular among the trekkers so there are several lodges and tea houses.
Khumbu is most commonly accessed from Kathmandu via Lukla (2800m, plane or bus from Kathmandu). From there hike to Namche Bazar (3440m, 9h).
Gokyo valley:-Gokyo valley runs in the NW direction of Tengboche, towards Cho Oyu. The main village of the valley is Gokyo (4550). At the end of the valley lies the Ngozumpa glacier which gives access to the southern slopes of Cho Oyu. Probably the most climbed peaks in the valley are Gokyo Ri (5438m) above the third Gokyo Lake and Nameless Towers between the 4th and 5th Gokyo lakes. Highest Tower (5800m) is a technically challenging mixed climb (TD) while the lowest (5500m), Group A trekking peaks Phari Lapcha, Machermo, and Kyazo Ri are all located to the west of Gokyo valley. Kyajo Ri is by far the most difficult of these. Its SW face is mixed at around 70 degrees steepness. Also, Kangschung Peak (6063m) is accessible from Gokyo valley.
Khumbu valley:-Khumbu valley is the northern side valley of Imja valley that begins at 4135m at the junction with Imja valley (Pheriche). The northern border is the Himalayan main ridge with Peak 6792, Pumori (7138m), Lingtren (6713m), Khumbutse (6639m), Lho la (5981m), Everest (8850m), South Col (7906m) and Lhotse (8516m). The western border is the ridge that runs from the main ride with Chumbu (6822m), Changri (5962m), Jobo Lampson (6423m), and Taboche (6495m). The Eastern border is a 22km ridge branching off at Lhotse main peak and running to the west with Nuptse (7861m). The ridge turns sharply to the south after P. 6480 and includes Oxygen Peak, Kongma Tse (5798m), and Pokalde (5778m).
The length of the valley from Pheriche to the end at Western cwm below South Col is 22 km. The uppermost part of the valley is made by the Khumbu glacier. On the edge of Khumbu ice fall lies Everest base camp (5400m). The valley is very popular both among the climbers and trekkers. The obvious attraction of the valley is Mount Everest. Trek to Everest base camp is very popular. Other climbing destinations that are reached from the valley include Ama Dablam (6812m), Pokalde (5794m, group B), Kongma Tse (group A), and Oxygen Peak on the east side of the valley. On the other side, on a ridge between Khumbu valley in NE and Gokyo valley in SW lie Pumori (7165m) and further south, close to Pherice lies Cholatse (6440m, group A). Further up close to Lobuche village trekking peaks Nirekhu (6159m, group A), Lobuche East (group B), and Lobuche West (group A) are located. Also, the popular Kala Pattar (5555m) is located here.
Access is from Lukla (2800m) via Namche Bazar (3440m) and lower Imja valley (northeast of Namche) to Tengboche (3860m, 5,5h), Pangboche (3985m, further 3h), and further to Pheriche (4240). From there higher up to Dingboche (4413, 5h from Pangboche) and Lobuche (4880m, 6h).
Rongphu valley (Rongbuk valley):-Located in China, to the NW of Everest. The valley has two main branches: Rongphu Nup glacier valley in the west and Ronphu Shar glacier valley in the East. Changtse (75443m) rises between the branches. Ronphu Nup between Khumbutse and Everest West Ridge in the south and west and north and NW ridges of Everest and Chantse in the east and north is used for the normal ascent of Everest from the north.
Kangshung valley:-Kangshung valley is located in China to the East of Everest. Is defined by the Everest North (NE) Ridge in the north and the Himalayan Main Ridge with Lhotse and Shartse in the south. Valley is used to access the stupendous Kangshung face of Everest. Access via Pethang and Ringmo villages.
Barun valley:-Barun valley is located to the southeast of Everest, bordered north and northeast by the Himalayan Main Ridge with Shartse, Pethangtse (6739m), Chago (6893m), Kangshungtse (7678m), and Makalu (8485m). Western border is the ridge running south from Shartse with Cho Polu (6700m), Num Ri (6635m), Baruntse (7152m), Peak 6535 and Khandro Tseheringma (6565m).
Southern Khumbu
Mera Peak:-Dudh Kosh valley with Lukla 2800m) and Namche Bazar (3450m) is the main valley of the Khumbu region and is used to access all other parts of Khumbu. Some climbs on Charpati Himal, lying between Dud Kosh valley in the west and Hinku valley in the east can be started directly from Dud Kosh. Main peaks of Charpati Himal are Thamserku (6623m), Kantega (6767m) and Kusum Kanguru (6367m). Kusum Kanguru is widely regarded as the most difficult of original trekking peaks.
Imja valley (aka Chukung valley) is located NE of Namche Bazar (3440m). The upper part of Imja valley is separated from Khumbu valley in the east by a ridge branching off at Lhotse main peak and running to the west with Nuptse (7861m). The ridge turns sharply to the south after 6480 and includes Oxygen Peak, Kogma Tse (5798m), and Pokalde (5778m).
The northern border is the Himalayan Main Ridge with the summits of Lhotse and Shartse (7591m). The stupendous South Face of Lhotse is one of the hardest faces in the Himalayas. Three subsidiary ridges are coming down from the Himalayan main ridge. The Easternmost of those fall from Lhotse Shar and include Imja Tse, the most popular trekking peak in the region. Chukung Ri is also located close to Imja Tse. The Eastern border is the long ridge running south from Shartse including Num Ri (6635m) and Baruntse (6985m).
The Southern border is formed by Zininga (6230m), Pokhari Peak (6402m), Ombigaichen (Pumo Dablam, 6340m, group A), and Ama Dablam (6340m). The south side of Ombigaichen is accessed from Namche Bazaar via Pangboche (4000m) and Ama Dablam SW ridge base camp. Base camp at 5200m. SW Ridge via Mingbo La (5815m, camp) is AD/D with 200m of 50. SW face is 800m snow/ice face (55). SE (Hunku) face is more complex with upper part ice (50).
From Namche to Tengboche (3860m, 5,5h), Pangboche (3985m, further 3h), and further to Pheriche (4240). Khumbu Chukung valley lies to the east of Pheriche and it provides access to the north side ascents of Ama Dablam (6812m) and the side of Baruntse. To the north of the valley the southern slopes of Khumbu Himal with Pokalde (5794m), Nuptse (7861m), Lhotse (8501m), and Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6173m).
Hinku valley is located between Charpati Himal (Thamserku, Kantega, Kusum Kanguru) in the west and Mera Peak and Peak 41 in the east. The access from Dud Kosh valley is over one of the high passes (4943m or 4590m) to the south of Kusum Kanguru. Hongku valley is located further to the east, on the eastern side of Mera Peak. It can be reached from Hinku valley via Mera la (5415m, immediately north of Mera peak. Ama Dablam (6812m, in NW) and Baruntse rise at the end of the valley.
Mountains:-Khumuche Himal is a south-north chain located to the north of Namche Bazar between Bhote Koshi in the west and Gokyo valley in the east.Khumuche HimalKumbi Yul Lha (5761m)Kyajo Ri (6186m)Pharilapche (6017m)
Taboche-Cholatse:-Group located between Gokyo valley in the west and Khumbu valley in the east.Taboche-CholatseTaboche (6542m)Cholatse (6440m)
Lobuche-Nirekha, Group is located between Gokyo valley in the west and Khumbu valley and to the north of the Taboche-Cholatse group.Lobuche-NirekhaLobuche East (6119m)Lobuche West (6145m)Nirekha (6159m)Abi (6097m)
Main Chain:-Khumbu Himalayan main ridge includes Khumbutse and Lho La pass (6026m). From there rises Everest West Ridge via West Shoulder to Mount Everest Main summit (8850m). From there the ridge continues south via Everest South Summit to South col (7906m) between Everest and Lhotse and further to The Lhotse Main summit. Here the ridge turns to the east and continues over Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar to Lhotse -Shartse Col (7577m) and further to Shartse (7591m), Shar La (6174m), and Pethangtse (6739m).
Solu Khumbu (Everest)Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Jiuda glacier groupHongxing Ri (6927m)Tongqiang Ri (6907m)Share groups arts (7457m)
Lunag groupLunag Ri (6895m)Lunag Ri North East (6781m)Lunag Ri South East (6778m)
Cho Oyu groupCho Oyu (8188m)Gyachung Kang (7952m)Ngozumpa Kang I (7916m)Ngozumpa Kang II (7743m)Nangpai Gosum I (7350m)Nangpai Gosum II (7321m)Siguang Ri (7309m)Pumori (7161m)Hungchhi (7029m)Palung Ri (7012m)Siguang Ri Shar (6998m)Hungchhi East (6942m)P. 6861 (6861m)Chumbu (6859m)Siguang Ri Northwest (6840m)P. 6792 (6792m)Chakung (7029m)Pumori (7161m)Lintgren (6749m)Khumbutse (6665m)
https://mountadventureholidays.com/package/everest-base-camp-trek-gokyo-lake-via-cho-la-pass (8848m)Lhotse (8501m)Imja Tse (6183m)Chang La (7042m)Changtse Chang La (6520m)Jiangbing La (6642m)Jian La (6500m)Jian Tse (6563m)South Col (7906m)
Changtse Ridge
Mountains:-Changtse RidgeChangtse (7543m)Changzheng Ri (6916m)Jianbing Ri (6852m)
Kharta Himal
Mountains:-Kharta HimalKharta Phu (7213m)Lixin Ri I (7078m)Kharta Changri (7056m)Kharta Phu West (7018m)Lhakpa Ri (6986m)Dongfang Ri I (6966m)Dongfang Ri II (6948m)Lixin Ri II (6869m)Nuptse Ridge
Solu Khumbu (Everest) Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Nuptse-PokaldeNuptse (7864m)Kongma Tse (5820m)Pokalde (5778m)Chhukung (5883m)Chhukung Ri (5546m)
Makalu Himal
Makalu Region,Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Makalu HimalMakalu (8463m)Chomo Lonzo (7790m)Kangchungtse (7678m)Chomo Lonzo Central (7565m)Chago (6893m)
Barun Himal:-Solu Khumbu (Everest)Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Barun HimalChamlang (7319m)Chamlang East (7287m)Baruntse (7129m)Hongku Chuli (6833m)Ama Dablam (6814m)Hongku Chuli West (6764m)Tutse (6758m)Baruntse South East (6752m)Cho Polu (6734m)Ombigainchan (6340m)
Charpati Himal
A small group is located to the east of Lukla, Namche Bazar, and Tengboche. The group consists of a south-north ridge with Kusum Kanguru in the south and Kangtega in the north and east-west side branch from Kangtega towards Namche Bazar containing Thamserku. The same ridge extends also to east over Malamphuhah to Mingbo la (5845m) separating Charpati Himal from Barun Himal.
Solu Khumbu (Everest)Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Charpati HimalKangtega (6783m)Kyashar (6770m)Kusum Kanguru (6369m)Thamserku (6608m)Malamphuhah (6573m)
Mera Himal:-Mera Himal is a north-south ridge located to the east of Charpati Himal. The highest peak of the group was Peak 41 in the northern part of the group, immediately to the south of Ombigaichan. To the south of it and separated from it by Mera la (5415m) lies Mera Peak, by far the most climbed peak in the group.
Solu Khumbu (Everest) Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Mera HimalPeak 41 (6654m)Mera Peak (6476m)
Sikkim lies sandwiched between Nepal in the west and Bhutan in the east, directly north of the Bay of Bengal. It was formerly independent but is a known part of India. The mountains of Sikkim are renowned for their poor weather, frequent snowfall, and general cloud cover. The considerable precipitation on these often steep-sided peaks produces spectacular flutings and corniced crests much more in keeping with Peruvian mountains than those of the Himalayas. The range is dominated by massive Kangchenjunga (8586m), the easternmost 8000m peak. Little is known about the area and access is complicated. However, there are several high peaks, including several unclimbed 7000m peaks. Darjeeling, lying some 70km south of Kangchenjunga is the most conveniently located starting point for climbs in Sikkim.
The area has only one trekking peak, Bokta (6143m, group A). It has been very rarely climbed (if ever) and it is one of the most difficult trekking peaks.
Arun valley runs in the North-South direction between Makalu & Kanchenjunga. The Guava Khola valley system is the largest valley to the west of the Kanchenjunga group. The valley has several side valleys in all directions. SW side of Kanchenjunga is approached from a different valley via Lapsang.
Sikkim Himalaya. At these Mountains of Central Asia Digital Dataset (MCADD).
Kanchenjunga Region. The Great Himalayan Trail.
Mountains:-Labuche HimalLapche Kang I (7367m)Lapche Kang III (7250m)Lapche Kang II (7072m)P. 7072 (7072m)P. ~7020 (7020m)P. 6980 (6980m)Colangma (6952m)P. 6897 (6897m)P. 6820 (6820m)
Nagarze HimalayaNorin Kang (7206m)Kaluxung (6674m)Jetun Chuisang (6247m)
Janak groupJongsong Peak (7459m)Dome Kang (7246m)Janak Chuli I (7035m)Drohmo (6881m)Lashar I (6842m)Omi Kangri (6839m)Lashar II (6803m)Chabuk (6792m)
KhumbhakarnaJannu (7711m)Anidesh Chuli (6815m)Ramthang Chang (6802m)Ramtang Peak (6700m)Bokta (6143m)
Kangchenjunga northKirat Chuli (7362m)Nepal Peak (7168m)Pathibara (7123m)Langpo (6965m)Langpo South (6857m)Langchung Kang (6786m)
KangchenjungaGimmigela Chuli I (7350m)Gimmigela Chuli II (7007m)Pangpema Peak (6350m)
Singalila groupKabru IV (7412m)Talung (7349m)Kabru North (7338m)Kabru South (7338m)Rathong (6680m)Koktang (6148m)
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